The brow code

Some like the pencil-thin arches of the ’90s, while some like supermodel Cara Delevigne’s and Bollywood’s very own ‘it girl’ Deepika Padukone’s current statement—brow trend. No matter what your preference, Eva Pavithran brings you a few brow hacks that will get you the eyebrows you need.

In the right measure
According to the image below, use a pen or a long stick to understand, 1. (where your eyebrow should begin) 2. (where the arch should be and) 3. (where your eyebrow should end)

The shape of your face matters
Bold, defined eyebrows were suddenly catapulted to superstardom a few seasons ago, at runways across global fashion weeks. They continue to rule the roost when it comes to beauty trends. That being said, not everyone can rock the caterpillar-like thick arches.
The shape and size of your eyes play a role, but it’s the shape of your face that is more important to determine the angle of your brows. Here’s a quick guide.
Round face: When your face is curvy, arched brows with sharp angles look best. Bridal make-up artist Recinda Martis says, “They make the face appear longer. Avoid getting a round brow shape, as it will only add to the overall roundness of your face.”
Oval face: “People with oval faces can go thick or thin, but the trick is to maintain the shape of the face,” says Recinda. According to her, soft angular arches that stretch outward to the temples are ideal for this face-type.
Heart-shaped face: Perhaps the trickiest of shapes in the bunch, the goal here is to soften the pointy chin and the prominent forehead. “Go for low, almost-straight brows that stays within the natural shape of your brow bone,” advises Recinda. Thinner eyebrows work best, but keep in mind to keep absolutely away from high, pointy arches.
Long face: Here’s a gorgeous face shape that can carry off both high or low arches. With a long face, the length of the brows is what matters the most. “Avoid eyebrows that are flat and heavy, and focus on extending their length,” explains Recinda. Don’t fill in the gaps; wispy brows are the most flattering choice in this case.
Square face: You can go for a nice, thick and defined arch if you fall in this category. “The jaw is quite strong in this case, so defined and bold brows are the way to go, as it will take the attention away from the jawline,” recommends Recinda.

Picking your tools
Simply tweezing, waxing or threading won’t get you those perfect brows. On the other hand, the right mix of products will. Here’s our pick of brow fixers:
Brow pencils: You can create a depth and an illusion of a fuller brow with the right eyebrow pencil. Fill in the gaps by drawing thin hair-like lines with a pencil that helps you do this with extreme precision. Browns
work better than blacks here, as it will make it look more natural.
Pro tip: Most brow pencils come with a brush. This helps in blending the strokes into the brows for a more natural finish. Pencils need a steady and experienced hand, so practise till you get it right. Until then, make sure to choose a product that can be removed easily to correct or fix mistakes.
Brow powders: While pencils can be used for filling in gaps, brow powders pump up the volume. They lend just the right amount of density to eyebrows that feel sparse despite being well-shaped. Brow powders are also easier to use for beginners, as you can gradually build up the colour.
Pro tip: Colour selection is crucial. Choose one that’s two shades lighter than your actual brow colour or the hair colour you’ve used. Brushing powder into the inner corners of your eyes will make them look like they are unreal; instead, focus the powder from the beginning of your arch to the end of your brow. Then, using a brow brush, blend the existing pigment into the inner corner for a more natural look.
Brow gels: These are your best options for setting the shape of your brows and helping in managing longer and unruly arches. Make sure to opt for a waterproof formula that won’t flake or dry out, making your eyebrows look too shiny and stiff.
Pro tip: To achieve a natural lift, sweep the gel through your eyebrows in an upward motion.

Tweeze at home
The general rule is to only tweeze what fits under your index finger above your nose. This will give the hair at the start of your brows a chance to grow back. If you don’t like the way it looks after it grows or if it hasn’t grown straight, skip the tweezers and trim them instead.
If you realise that one brow is higher than the other, tweeze a little bit off the top of the higher brow and a little bit off the bottom of the lower brow. If you have some growing to do, leave the tweezing for next month when you can assess and reshape with a little more growth.
Trimming can make a significant difference to the shape of your brows. The easiest way to do it is to brush brows up, or in the direction they grow, and then turn your eyebrow-trimming scissors against the hair and cut whatever is above the brow-line. The scissors should be parallel to the brow to give them a straight clean edge.